Grey Hair: Friend or Foe?

Grey Hair: Friend or Foe?

Grey Hair: Friend or Foe?

by Spa Gregorie’s DM Stylist

It may be dreary outside, but not inside at Spa Gregorie’s! We are proud to introduce INOA Haircolor from L’Oreal. The #1 Haircolor company in the world has launched their latest technology of haircolor. No ammonia, supreme respect to the hair, 100% coverage of grey and in 49 shades of bliss! No more grey days, with no harm to the hair! Receive this premium hair color service at no additional cost during our special launch now through July 31, 2010. Who would have thought our hair can be compared to the weather!  Grey Days, Grey Hair – no more!

Most of us are starting to turn grey and not liking it! Drab, dull, resistant – not pleasing to the eye at all! Let me help you find answers to the most common challenges of grey hair. I will help you to start to make grey hair your “friend, something you can work with, not against.”

As a color specialist for 35 years, I have had the opportunity to view the graying patterns of the Baby Boomer generation.  There are three basic hair types, each having their own special needs.  In the salon, we see 85% of our clientele needing regular maintence on grey hair.  When hair grows out from the scalp, it grows out grey, needing to be colored the appropriate color. As we each grow older, we continue to get more and more grey.  This can change the needs of the hair as time goes on.  Particularily, the hair can get more resistant.  The most common problem is the hair color not “taking”.  This can happen as we get “more and more” grey.  Your stylist will need to alter the regular formula.

Back to the three types of hair.  One is dark brown.  When people start to go grey they want each grey hair covered with no “peeking through”.  This is probably the hardest situation to handle.  When we use hair color, the darker the color, the deeper the pigment pack.  When you put dark hair color on dark hair, it creates a very “opaque” coverage. Not very natural looking.  Some suggestions I give clients, do some highlights on the part line, lighten up a little, color over the highlights with your regular dark color and it creates a much more natural look with complete coverage.  Deposit only haircolor is also and option,  this product doesn’t contain amomonia, a harmful ingredient to the hair. Hence, a darker and slightly warmer color is needed. Next, soft brown hair, people who are born with white or very light blonde hair.  These people start to experience their hair getting darker, like a mousy brown as they get older.

Naturally, they don’t like that drab color, so they represent the largest population of color services. Most people get highlights, as they age, they will start getting root color also.  The biggest challenge with this hair type is the hair not getting light enough, staying yellow.  This color doesn’t look good against the skin.  Once the hair is the appropriate color, the next challenge is constant grow out. Remember, the hair grows out that drab brown, and they like it very pale blonde.  This client is best suited to start “bumping the base” a simple process to lighten the drab brown a level or two, making the grow out not nearly as bad. Lastly, the red hair category.  As these people start to go grey, their hair also gets drab, losing that beautiful warm brown or red color.  Deposit only hair color is good here, a few warm highlights look beautiful on this hair type.  Dimension, (multiple colors) are great on this hair type, as it helps to “warm up” the hair color – with out damaging all of the hair.

There are two basic ways to apply haircolor: a bottle or brush is used.  We either apply on the scalp or off the scalp.  (The off the scalp application is usually done on foils to keep one hair separate from the other).  Many creative colors can be applied to add interest and uniqueness the each client.  With the application methods, we also have many choices of product to put on the hair.  The most common, Ammonia based haircolor.  While most brands contain about 2% ammonia, it is still harmful to the scalp and hair, permanent color choices available now don’t contain ammonia and cover grey, Loreal’s INOA just out in salons. Deposit only haircolor, doesn’t chemically alter the natural hair so it keeps the shine and health of the hair in better shape.  Wella color touch,  Loreal Richesse and High Richesse are a few choices. MEA is a new chemical compound in haircolor, found in Redken shades EQ, Camo color for Men and now in the Loreal INOA haircolor.

Most people need to have their grey hair “touched up” between 4 and 6 weeks.  If  one goes longer than that, banding or uneven results will occur. Not because of improper application, but because there is a “heat zone” around the scalp that is about a ½ inch out, caused by body heat. This makes the haircolor process faster.  For any of those people that have tried to color on their own, hot roots or very dark results on the ends are an effect of the heat zone. (as the hair gets longer, it gets colder to the touch, this slows down the process of coloring hair.) Now, lets talk about how this information can help you to overcome the grey hair challenges.  With haircolor, we can create different finishes.  Think of  pantyhose.Some cover the leg completely. No visible signs of the leg.  This is the way most of us want to cover up our grey.

Next, think of a sheer stocking. Color tone from the nylon, but the leg is still visible to the eye.  Let’s think of hair color that is a little more sheer, the grow out line isn’t as strong, the hair now has the ability to look shinier, more reflective more natural. Most people grey in the frontal areas at a higher rate, we identify it in percentages. Most frontal grey is higher than 50% more like 75 to 100% grey.  So, after as little as a few days, when the grey hair starts to grow out, if you have a really strong finish, the grey against that looks very dramatic. If you had a more sheer finish, it wouldn’t be as noticeable.  If you have some graying patterns that have higher percentages of grey, you can “weave” different types of haircolor in that area. 1) a darker color for more opaque coverage, 2) lighter, to break up the line of demarcation, and then color over it. 3) use a deposit only color for a more sheer finish. Now, lets make that grey hair you friend, use some of these techniques to give you a more pleasing result and help to keep the hair in better condition!

Contact Spa Gregorie’s DM Salon at 858-481-6672 or Spa Gregorie’s RSM Salon at 949.858.9455 today!

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